<\/a>With the invention of the
cocktail - and the cocktail dress - gin became a
premium product for women<\/p><\/div>\n
Gin martinis were invented at some point in the
mid-19th century, and they oozed class and sex appeal.
Gone was the downtrodden image of gin, and here to
stay was the limey note (although the martini is an
american invention, gin remains very, very British) of
superiority in cocktail form. My favourite anecdote is
over\u00a0 Noel
Coward<\/a>‘s recipe for the martini:
“filling a glass with gin then waving it in the
general direction of Italy”.<\/p>\n
With sexy gin came sexy ladies, of course. In popular
culture, the gin-drinking lady had shaken off her
working class shackles and exchanged them for high
heels and a form-fitting cocktail dress. Yet the
phantom of criminality still lingered, especially in
the States, where during Prohibition cheap, illegal
gin was widely available due to the relative ease of
making the spirit, giving rise to bathtub
gin<\/a>, so called because you could make it in your
bathtub.<\/p>\n
And as we know from Hogarth, criminality + gin + women
= political difficulties over female sexuality. This
time, there are tales to be told with women on both
sides of the bar.<\/p>\n
The case for Prohibition was being made by the
Christian campaigning group known as the Women’s
Temperance Movement<\/a>. On the other side of the
fence, we have gin-drinking flappers adorning the
aisles in Speakeasies<\/a>.
These women were both working towards different kinds
of freedoms, which perhaps have reached their pinnacle
in the sex-positive and anti-porn camps of
today’s feminist movement.<\/p>\n
The anti-gin temperance faction were looking for a way
of getting their household money out of the hands of
the barkeepers and into their cupboards to feed their
children (this from a time when men were the primary
breadwinners and their wives were given an allocation
of salary to spend on the home and family). The
glittery girls in their cocktail dresses were living a
lifestyle outside of traditional notions of
“home and hearth”.<\/p>\n
Gin and I<\/h3>\n
Now, I’m partial to a gin and tonic, having
been brought up to think of it as a “grown
up” drink, unlike the fizzy gunk in a bottle
presented to us as teenagers in the form of
alcopops. Being able to sit down and
enjoy<\/em> – not just drink, but actually
enjoy – a well-made gin and tonic was one of
the ways in which I knew my tastes had changed
from those of a sweet-craving teen into something
more adult.\u00a0 I’m now a bit of a gin
aficionado, and gin, in return, is cool.<\/p>\n
There’s lots of different sorts of brands,
with their own mix of botanicals. There are gin
clubs, and many of the beautiful London pubs are
reclaiming their heritage as gin
palaces<\/a>. These buildings, with their wood
panel divisions and separate entrance ways,
marked a time when it was unseemly for a lady to
be in a public house, and the ability to drink
with discretion, and away from the riff-raff,
was valued.<\/p>\n
Yet there is still the spectre of Gin Lane
hanging over womankind:<\/p>\n
The most dangerous drink is gin. You have to
be really, really careful with that. And you
also have to be 45, female and sitting on the
stairs. Because gin isn’t really a
drink, it’s more a mascara thinner.
<\/p>\n
“Nobody likes my shoes!” <\/p>\n
“I made… I made fifty…
fucking vol-au-vents, and not one of
you… not
one<\/strong> of you… said
‘Thank you.'” <\/p>\n
And my favourite: “Everybody, shut
up. Shut
up<\/strong>! This song is all about
me.”\u00a0 <\/p>\n
–
Dylan
Moran<\/strong><\/p><\/blockquote>\n
Gin remains a tricky drink, known
for its tendencies to make one
tearful, and crying is still sadly
a girlish subject, although there
are ongoing attempts to make the
drink more manly, as seen in the
macho advertising for
Gordon’s Gin featuring
sweary chef Gordon Ramsay.<\/p>\n
Now, whilst seeing Captain Shouty
pelted with ice and limes is quite
entertaining, the obvious message
is “gin is a MANLY DRINK for
MANLY MEN” with a side note
of “take it seriously, this
is a foodie subject” to
reinforce the quality of the
product. Gordon was recently
dropped from the campaign,
following a decline in sales,
which may or may not indicate
that, for the time being at least,
gin still remains a
‘female’
tipple.<\/p>\n