{"id":9416,"date":"2012-01-19T09:00:59","date_gmt":"2012-01-19T09:00:59","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.badreputation.org.uk\/?p=9416"},"modified":"2012-01-19T09:00:59","modified_gmt":"2012-01-19T09:00:59","slug":"time-to-take-another-walk-down-gin-lane","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/badreputation.org.uk\/2012\/01\/19\/time-to-take-another-walk-down-gin-lane\/","title":{"rendered":"Time To Take Another Walk Down Gin Lane"},"content":{"rendered":"
I was reading Lancashire Life<\/strong><\/a> whilst back home at my parents’ (stop
judging me, it’s the rural North and the Internet doesn’t work
properly) when I came across an article about Joanne Moore. Not the glamour
girl of the silver screen<\/a> otherwise known as Dorothy Cook (no
relation). This Joanne Moore works
for G&J Greenalls<\/a>, and she’s the world’s only master
gin distiller.<\/p>\n
It’s an interesting article, and well worth a read, but
there’s more to this than wheeling out the tired old saw of
“Wow! A woman doing a man’s job!”. However, I do want to
offer some heartfelt congratulations to Joanne especially for her
signature product Bloom<\/a>, which is
made with notes of chamomile, pomelo and honeysuckle. Chin chin,
darling.<\/p>\n
For the UK gin is a rather relevant beverage, with its history steeped
in that of the Empire\u00a0(not
unlike tea<\/a>). Hogarth's famous print "Gin
Lane" hardly strikes a classy note<\/p><\/div>Alongside tea, gin is
wrapped up visions of womanhood past and present. No, seriously –
so important, so ground shaking is the connection between women and gin
that we have our very own gin
and tonic perfume<\/a>. The relationship has, however, been fraught with
difficulties.<\/p>\n
Gin arrived on our shores in around 1690. By the eighteenth century it
had become very popular, culminating in The Gin Craze<\/a>.
Put simply, gin
was cheap, strong and easily available, particularly for the urban
poor<\/a>. A lot of gin was drunk, and a lot of poor people
got<\/em> drunk. As is often the case when poor people take drugs,
gin was linked to crime, and in the case of poor women, it was linked
to promiscuous behaviour and infertility, earning the sobriquet
Mother’s Ruin<\/em>.<\/p>\n
Reformers of the time, including William
Hogarth<\/a>, focussed on how gin consumption might be affecting
women. This sort of thing is still the case today – with
excitable press articles over binge-drinking “ladettes<\/a>“,
the idea of a drunken woman is treated very differently from that
of a drunken man. Given that women were supposedly exemplars of
correct social behaviour, their bad gin drinking behaviour was
treated with something akin to political hysteria, and we
all know about the history of
that<\/em> word.<\/a> In fact, gin’s image was such that
the 1751 act of parliament introducing taxation on alcohol was
known as the Gin
Act<\/a> and for a while, at least, gin did not touch the lips
of any woman who wanted herself to be thought well of.<\/p>\n
Why don\u2019t you slip out of those wet clothes and into
a dry martini? <\/p>\n
–
Robert Benchley<\/strong><\/p><\/blockquote>\n
The rise of gin can probably be attributed to the gin
martini<\/a>. Not the vodka heresy as drunk
shaken-not-stirred by 007 (who eschewed the womanly
gin connection), but the real deal, made with gin,
vermouth and either an olive or a twist of lemon (I
recently found out that those slivers of peel are
pleasingly known as “dead goldfish” in the
bar trade).<\/p>\n With the invention of the
cocktail - and the cocktail dress - gin became a
premium product for women<\/p><\/div>\n
Gin martinis were invented at some point in the
mid-19th century, and they oozed class and sex appeal.
Gone was the downtrodden image of gin, and here to
stay was the limey note (although the martini is an
american invention, gin remains very, very British) of
superiority in cocktail form. My favourite anecdote is
over\u00a0 Noel
Coward<\/a>‘s recipe for the martini:
“filling a glass with gin then waving it in the
general direction of Italy”.<\/p>\n
With sexy gin came sexy ladies, of course. In popular
culture, the gin-drinking lady had shaken off her
working class shackles and exchanged them for high
heels and a form-fitting cocktail dress. Yet the
phantom of criminality still lingered, especially in
the States, where during Prohibition cheap, illegal
gin was widely available due to the relative ease of
making the spirit, giving rise to bathtub
gin<\/a>, so called because you could make it in your
bathtub.<\/p>\n
And as we know from Hogarth, criminality + gin + women
= political difficulties over female sexuality. This
time, there are tales to be told with women on both
sides of the bar.<\/p>\n
The case for Prohibition was being made by the
Christian campaigning group known as the Women’s
Temperance Movement<\/a>. On the other side of the
fence, we have gin-drinking flappers adorning the
aisles in Speakeasies<\/a>.
These women were both working towards different kinds
of freedoms, which perhaps have reached their pinnacle
in the sex-positive and anti-porn camps of
today’s feminist movement.<\/p>\n
The anti-gin temperance faction were looking for a way
of getting their household money out of the hands of
the barkeepers and into their cupboards to feed their
children (this from a time when men were the primary
breadwinners and their wives were given an allocation
of salary to spend on the home and family). The
glittery girls in their cocktail dresses were living a
lifestyle outside of traditional notions of
“home and hearth”.<\/p>\n
Now, I’m partial to a gin and tonic, having
been brought up to think of it as a “grown
up” drink, unlike the fizzy gunk in a bottle
presented to us as teenagers in the form of
alcopops. Being able to sit down and
enjoy<\/em> – not just drink, but actually
enjoy – a well-made gin and tonic was one of
the ways in which I knew my tastes had changed
from those of a sweet-craving teen into something
more adult.\u00a0 I’m now a bit of a gin
aficionado, and gin, in return, is cool.<\/p>\n
There’s lots of different sorts of brands,
with their own mix of botanicals. There are gin
clubs, and many of the beautiful London pubs are
reclaiming their heritage as gin
palaces<\/a>. These buildings, with their wood
panel divisions and separate entrance ways,
marked a time when it was unseemly for a lady to
be in a public house, and the ability to drink
with discretion, and away from the riff-raff,
was valued.<\/p>\n
Yet there is still the spectre of Gin Lane
hanging over womankind:<\/p>\n
The most dangerous drink is gin. You have to
be really, really careful with that. And you
also have to be 45, female and sitting on the
stairs. Because gin isn’t really a
drink, it’s more a mascara thinner.
<\/p>\n
“Nobody likes my shoes!” <\/p>\n
“I made… I made fifty…
fucking vol-au-vents, and not one of
you… not
one<\/strong> of you… said
‘Thank you.'” <\/p>\n
And my favourite: “Everybody, shut
up. Shut
up<\/strong>! This song is all about
me.”\u00a0 <\/p>\n
–
Dylan
Moran<\/strong><\/p><\/blockquote>\n
Gin remains a tricky drink, known
for its tendencies to make one
tearful, and crying is still sadly
a girlish subject, although there
are ongoing attempts to make the
drink more manly, as seen in the
macho advertising for
Gordon’s Gin featuring
sweary chef Gordon Ramsay.<\/p>\n
Now, whilst seeing Captain Shouty
pelted with ice and limes is quite
entertaining, the obvious message
is “gin is a MANLY DRINK for
MANLY MEN” with a side note
of “take it seriously, this
is a foodie subject” to
reinforce the quality of the
product. Gordon was recently
dropped from the campaign,
following a decline in sales,
which may or may not indicate
that, for the time being at least,
gin still remains a
‘female’
tipple.<\/p>\n
Gin for Victory!<\/h3>\n
<\/a>
The Martini Comeback<\/h3>\n
<\/a>
Gin and I<\/h3>\n