{"id":13376,"date":"2013-03-27T11:00:28","date_gmt":"2013-03-27T11:00:28","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.badreputation.org.uk\/?p=13376"},"modified":"2013-03-27T12:20:16","modified_gmt":"2013-03-27T12:20:16","slug":"guest-post-lingerie-women-and-eroticism-a-brief-study-of-the-21st-century-agent-provocateur-woman-part-22","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/badreputation.org.uk\/2013\/03\/27\/guest-post-lingerie-women-and-eroticism-a-brief-study-of-the-21st-century-agent-provocateur-woman-part-22\/","title":{"rendered":"[Guest
Post] Lingerie, Women and Eroticism: A Brief Study of the 21st Century Agent
Provocateur Woman (Part 2\/2)"},"content":{"rendered":"
<ul>
  \n
  <li>
    <em
      >Here&#8217;s Part 2 of <a
      href=\"http:\/\/www.rarelywearslipstick.com\">Rarely Wears Lipstick<\/a>
      founder and blogger
      <strong
        >Lori Smith<\/strong>&#8216;s guest post two-parter (which is possibly
        mildly NSFW depending on how relaxed your workplace is!) <a
        href=\"http:\/\/www.badreputation.org.uk\/2013\/03\/26\/guest-post-lingerie-women-and-eroticism-a-brief-study-of-the-21st-century-agent-provocateur-woman-part-12\/\">Read
        Part 1 here<\/a>.<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
        <h2>
          Part 2: The Myth of the Agent Provocateur Woman<\/h2>\n
          <p>
            If it is understood that the dominant discourse still pertains to
            heterosexual and patriarchal ideologies, Agent Provocateur was
            certainly aiming to challenge this in 2008. The brochure for their
            Spring\/Summer collection that year contains many examples of
            non-heteronormative behaviour.<\/p>\n
          </p>
          <p>
            A model in a swimming costume and stilettos <a
            href=\"http:\/\/i1.wp.com\/www.badreputation.org.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/AP2.jpg?resize=547%2C410\"
            target=\"_blank\">stands in front of a seated, similarly attired
            woman<\/a>, who touches her leg and looks up to her. Two women in
            satin lingerie and high heels are seen walking together \u2013 one
            has her hand on the other\u2019s buttocks. A woman in animal print
            lingerie brandishes a spanking paddle and leans over an anonymous
            prostrate naked woman, whilst holding a rope that is attached to the
            submissive woman\u2019s neck like a leash. An anonymous red-haired
            woman straddles a seated gasping woman whose arm is being stroked by
            a blonde in lingerie, brandishing a riding crop. Another woman, who
            is standing with her legs apart and her hands on her hips, watches
            an athletic female pole dancer. A topless woman in a red wig climbs
            on top of a woman in lingerie who lies, restrained, on a
            table.<\/p>\n
          </p>
          <p>
            There are also many examples of dominant female behaviour. Two women
            in bright coloured wigs and lingerie tie up and blindfold a clothed
            man on his knees. A man in underwear stands, with hands tied behind
            his back, displaying marks on his chest that suggest he has been
            struck by the riding crop held by the woman to his left. A
            handcuffed man is disrobed by a woman, whilst another woman records
            the scene using a professional video camera. A man lying restrained
            on a table, has his trousers unzipped by a lingerie-clad woman who
            is holding a glass of brandy and is staring directly at the
            viewer.<\/p>\n
          </p>
          <p>
            <a
            href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.badreputation.org.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/AP4.jpg\"><img
            data-attachment-id=\"13398\"
            data-permalink=\"https:\/\/badreputation.org.uk\/2013\/03\/26\/guest-post-lingerie-women-and-eroticism-a-brief-study-of-the-21st-century-agent-provocateur-woman-part-12\/ap4\/\"
            data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i1.wp.com\/badreputation.org.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/AP4.jpg?fit=640%2C480&amp;ssl=1\"
            data-orig-size=\"640,480\" data-comments-opened=\"1\"
            data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}\"
            data-image-title=\"AP4\" data-image-description=\"\"
            data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i1.wp.com\/badreputation.org.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/AP4.jpg?fit=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1\"
            data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i1.wp.com\/badreputation.org.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/AP4.jpg?fit=640%2C480&amp;ssl=1\"
            loading=\"lazy\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-13398\"
            alt=\"AP4\"
            src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.badreputation.org.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/AP4.jpg?resize=540%2C380\"
            width=\"540\" height=\"380\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n
          </p>
          <p>
            In this image, the Agent Provocateur woman is powerful yet playful.
            She is passionate, determined to satisfy her own desires and, from
            the facial expressions depicted, is clearly enjoying herself. She is
            active, not passive, and has agency.<\/p>\n
          </p>
          <p>
            However, in the 2012 brochure, the Agent Provocateur woman appears
            to have little or no agency. She faces the camera as if directed to
            by the photographer and is entirely the subject of the gaze \u2013
            continually watching herself. This appears to be a return to the
            woman John Berger describes in <a
            href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Ways_of_Seeing\"
            target=\"_blank\"><strong
              >Ways of Seeing<\/strong><\/a>:<\/p>\n
              <blockquote>
                <p>
                  She has to survey everything she is and everything she does
                  because how she appears to others, and ultimately how she
                  appears to men, is of crucial importance for what is normally
                  thought of as the success of her life.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n
                </p>
                <p>
                  There is little or no resistance to dominant discourses in the
                  images contained within this brochure. All of the women appear
                  sexually available, but are inviting sex rather than pursuing
                  it. A woman stands in lingerie and heels next to a similarly
                  attired seated woman, both facing the viewer with their legs
                  apart. A woman kneels on a velvet chair, glancing over her
                  shoulder at the viewer, with her buttocks prominently
                  displayed. A woman in lingerie reclines on a chaise longue. A
                  seated woman with her legs apart, hand on hip, stares at the
                  viewer. There is no interaction between these women, even when
                  more than one appears in the same image. Their only purpose is
                  to invite the viewer\u2019s gaze.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:
                  center;\"><a
                  href=\"https:\/\/i2.wp.com\/www.badreputation.org.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/AP10.jpg\"><img
                  data-attachment-id=\"13409\"
                  data-permalink=\"https:\/\/badreputation.org.uk\/2013\/03\/27\/guest-post-lingerie-women-and-eroticism-a-brief-study-of-the-21st-century-agent-provocateur-woman-part-22\/ap10\/\"
                  data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i1.wp.com\/badreputation.org.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/AP10.jpg?fit=640%2C480&amp;ssl=1\"
                  data-orig-size=\"640,480\" data-comments-opened=\"1\"
                  data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}\"
                  data-image-title=\"AP10\" data-image-description=\"\"
                  data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i1.wp.com\/badreputation.org.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/AP10.jpg?fit=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1\"
                  data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i1.wp.com\/badreputation.org.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/AP10.jpg?fit=640%2C480&amp;ssl=1\"
                  loading=\"lazy\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-13409\"
                  alt=\"AP10\"
                  src=\"https:\/\/i2.wp.com\/www.badreputation.org.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/03\/AP10.jpg?resize=448%2C336\"
                  width=\"448\" height=\"336\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\"
                  \/><\/a><\/p>\n
                </p>
                <p>
                  <a
                  href=\"http:\/\/joc.sagepub.com\/content\/6\/2\/177.abstract\"
                  target=\"_blank\">Christian Jantzen and others<\/a> conducted
                  a series of interviews with white middle class women in
                  Denmark. The results suggested that these women wear delicate
                  lingerie in order to achieve a sensation rather than a look.
                  They wear it for how it makes them feel \u2013 confident,
                  sensual, happy and satisfied \u2013 not necessarily for how
                  they will be perceived by their partner. Some of the
                  interviewees even admitted that the men in their lives do not
                  understand their desire for exquisite lingerie. For them, the
                  purchase and wearing of beautiful expensive underwear is about
                  much more than just sex. It is about identity, pleasure,
                  knowing how to dress for the right occasion, and,
                  occasionally, projecting a desired alternate
                  self-image:<\/p>\n
                </p>
                <blockquote>
                  <p>
                    The importance of lingerie to most of our respondents is due
                    to the fact that this kind of garment enables them to
                    demonstrate that they can manage a modern femininity. By
                    adhering to a certain scheme of classification, they show
                    how they master their performance in different situations.
                    This confirms their
                    <em
                      >social self<\/em>.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n
                      <p>
                        Their research suggests that presenting lingerie as
                        something to be enjoyed by the viewer rather than the
                        wearer would not appeal to women. Even if this is not
                        always true of women outside of their small study
                        sample, I would argue that the current representation of
                        the Agent Provocateur woman would therefore not appeal
                        to the customer the brand originally sought to
                        attract.<\/p>\n
                      </p>
                      <p>
                        To conclude, the Agent Provocateur woman\u2019s identity
                        is, like the identity of every woman, shaped by
                        discourse and the ideologies she is exposed to. If the
                        woman is surrounded by, and part of, discourse which
                        challenges what is currently dominant, she will herself
                        become part of a reverse discourse. Agent Provocateur
                        was originally conceived by Corr\u00e9 and Rees as a
                        celebration of femininity, and the initial
                        representation of the Agent Provocateur woman emphasised
                        the performativity of her gender and her rejection of
                        the patriarchal ideologies so often present in lingerie
                        advertising.<\/p>\n
                      </p>
                      <p>
                        Although the association between Agent Provocateur
                        lingerie and this playfully erotic yet not passive
                        lifestyle is purely arbitrary, it was exceedingly easy
                        for customers to see the brand\u2019s values and decide
                        whether or not they wished to adopt them. Through the
                        act of putting on this particular brand of quality
                        exotic lingerie, a customer would create her sense of
                        self, create her gender and transform her life into that
                        of the Agent Provocateur woman. All of this was
                        successfully conveyed in the promotional images and
                        advertising for the brand up until at least 2008.<\/p>\n
                      </p>
                      <p>
                        In looking at the differences between the images used to
                        promote the Spring\/Summer 2008 collection and those of
                        the Autumn\/Winter 2012 collection, it could be argued
                        that the sale of the brand to a multinational company
                        had an effect on how the Agent Provocateur woman was
                        represented. The brand\u2019s ideal woman appears to now
                        offer far less resistance to current discourses on
                        gender, sexuality and femininity than she did when
                        Corr\u00e9 and Rees first sought to use lingerie as a
                        way to disrupt and question the fashion status
                        quo.<\/p>\n
                      </p>
                      <p>
                        In expanding the market for the brand, the new owners
                        appear to be attempting to create erotic lingerie that
                        does not offend, thus diluting the original ethos of
                        Agent Provocateur. Perhaps it is the current discourse
                        which has changed, or maybe the Agent Provocateur woman
                        simply works with the current discourse rather than
                        against it? However, it could also be claimed that what
                        is considered to be erotic is entirely
                        subjective.<\/p>\n
                      </p>
                      <ul>
                        \n
                        <li>
                          <em
                            ><strong
                              >Lori Smith<\/strong> is a rant-lite feminist who
                              enjoys turning her thoughts into word form and
                              then throwing them at the internet to see what
                              sticks. She does this on a regular basis over at
                              <a href=\"http:\/\/www.rarelywearslipstick.com\/\"
                              target=\"_blank\"><strong
                                >Rarely Wears Lipstick<\/strong><\/a>, and has
                                previously <a
                                href=\"http:\/\/www.thefword.org.uk\/features\/2011\/05\/fashion_and_gender\"
                                target=\"_blank\">contributed<\/a> to <a
                                href=\"http:\/\/www.thefword.org.uk\/\"
                                target=\"_blank\">The F-Word<\/a> under her
                                Sunday name. <\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<div
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                                                      <p>
                                                        Here&#8217;s Part 2 of
                                                        Rarely Wears Lipstick
                                                        founder and blogger Lori
                                                        Smith&#8216;s guest post
                                                        two-parter (which is
                                                        possibly mildly NSFW
                                                        depending on how relaxed
                                                        your workplace is!) Read
                                                        Part 1 here. Part 2: The
                                                        Myth of the Agent
                                                        Provocateur Woman If it
                                                        is understood that the
                                                        dominant discourse still
                                                        pertains to heterosexual
                                                        and patriarchal
                                                        ideologies,
                                                        [&hellip;]<\/p>\n<div
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