{"id":12762,"date":"2012-12-19T07:48:27","date_gmt":"2012-12-19T07:48:27","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.badreputation.org.uk\/?p=12762"},"modified":"2012-12-19T11:56:34","modified_gmt":"2012-12-19T11:56:34","slug":"found-feminism-agent-provocateur-the-chase","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/badreputation.org.uk\/2012\/12\/19\/found-feminism-agent-provocateur-the-chase\/","title":{"rendered":"Found Feminism: Agent Provocateur, The Chase"},"content":{"rendered":"
I was reading about the rivalry between Victoria’s Secret and Agent Provocateur the other day (as is my wont of a Thursday evening) and in the course of doing so I discovered this classic Agent Provocateur advert:<\/p>\n
I quite like Agent Provocateur in general – while it’s a bit
ridiculous in places (this<\/a> may be many things, but it is
not <\/strong>a ‘playsuit’), I do feel like it’s
positively targeted at strong, empowered women who like luxury lingerie, and
their partners (the Gentleman’s Guide<\/a> for boyfriends on their
website is quite amusing).<\/p>\n
This may be because their creative director is herself a female force to
be reckoned with: Sarah Shotton, who worked her way up the company from an
‘apprenticeship’ when it had just started up. Now at the top,
Shotton states that she tries every design she looks at on a size 8 model
and a size 16, to ensure that it works on a range of shapes. No more than
she should do, perhaps, but probably still more than many other lingerie
designers. So I’m on side from the get-go, really.<\/p>\n
But to the ad!<\/p>\n H&M’s Winter 2012
campaign<\/p><\/div>\n
First things first, this has got to be in the minority among lingerie
campaigns in that the female protagonist is active and capable.
She’s not in a boudoir and she’s not being sexy for an
imagined (male) viewer. I present this from La Senza<\/a> and this from the M&S ‘Autograph’
lingerie<\/a> range for comparison.<\/p>\n
For a more current spin, to my right is H&M’s Winter 2012 print
campaign. Oh look, it’s another woman in lingerie on a bed (\/ weird
sheepskin shebang), lit so you can’t actually see her face. For a
more avant garde take on these same ideas, check out this bizarre mini-film masterwork<\/a> from Damaris.
Damaris, I love you dearly, but seriously, what is this?<\/p>\n
Conversely, in the Agent Provocateur advert our heroine is out and about,
and about to get on a bus. She’s wearing a wrap dress and plimsoles
– well-dressed, but clearly not on any kind of Special Sexy Trip
– and she also just happens to be wearing matching Agent Provocateur
lingerie.<\/p>\n
One effect of this decision is to make the underwear look practical. This
is not true of most of Agent Provocateur’s range (or price tag).
They’ve always been really into the idea of lingerie as a
‘special secret’ (not Victoria’s).<\/p>\n
The photography on their website is lit as if by searchlight to reinforce
this, and this advert refines that a little, pushing lingerie as a secret
just for you, the wearer. But, they’re arguing here, it’s also
something viable for every day. Our protagonist is just hangin’ out
in her designer lingerie, because she wants to wear it – for
herself.<\/p>\n
Personally, I commend her: good underwear is the skeleton of an outfit,
and I don’t see why, if you’re lucky enough to be able to buy
luxury lingerie, it should have to languish at the bottom of a drawer
until some performative Special Occasion.<\/p>\n
But I think this ad – and its slogan, ‘sexy never takes a day
off’ – is also saying that there’s something almost
intrinsic about ‘sexy’. In this advert, the Agent Provocateur
underwear, and the choice to wear it out and about, is just an extension
of the heroine’s natural confidence and, well, sexiness.<\/p>\n
It’s this confidence that makes her actually embark on the chase in
the first place. The underwear’s not making her sexy; she’s
chosen the underwear because she already
is<\/em> sexy. Typical advertising, of course, but isn’t it
better to see someone being sexy in their day to day life than backlit
in a studio, lounging on a bed?<\/p>\n<\/a>